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iMickey503 1 year, 3 months ago.
AnonymousThe X-M-1.5 thermal mass hot water rocket stove explained for anyone interested in this new technology. The intellectual property herein and disclosed may be used by any person for experimental non profit use. For profit use is strictly forbidden without a consenting contract.
The rocket stove was developed to assist impoverished people in 3rd world countries in cooking with a minimal amount of organic fuel; the thought was to help limit deforestation by providing the most efficient burn as possible.
Rocket stoves consume about half the fuel of conventional burning.
The basics; air is drawn in a downdraft direction over the fuel (wood) in essence only burning the tips in a rich oxygen environment.
Air travels down the fuel hopper past the fuel source, it passes across the fire tunnel, up the riser pipe, then trapped in a steel barrel where further combustion occurs, then slowly drawn down the steel barrel to an exit pipe at the bottom, and finally up the stack and released as steam with no visible signs of smoke, and no odor other than ash.I’ve taken the basic design several steps farther and will explain the aero/hydro/thermal dynamics in the photos below, and some improvements I haven’t done yet.
Keep in mind hot water rises, thermal stratification, cooling condenses, and centrifugal forces drive heavier matter to the outside and lighter matter to the center.
Stage 1, the fuel hopper.
Wood is stacked in the hopper end to end and is gravity fed into the combustion chamber.
The frame is hollow square tubing and is air cooled as air is drawn through it to feed fire pre heated air. In the center of the hopper is the oil feed that drips used motor oil onto the wood, its located above the simmer vent. polyethylene and polypropylene can be mixed randomly into the wood, or pre-melted and wrapped around a stick (large laundry detergent bottles) the plastic melts and feeds the fire similar to the melting of wax.
No PVC (poly vinyl chloride) is used, the resulting hydrogen chloride is extremely toxic.Stage 2, the fire tunnel.
The front of the stove has a cleanout/vent door, the door opens with it hinging along the bottom, this is necessary to maintain a strong draft along the floor to the base of the fire, once past the fire the products of combustion (super heated steam) go to work thermally cracking molecules like oil, creosote, and other hydro carbons, in the back of the tunnel is the riser pipe, before the air goes up the riser, it’s funneled to one side much like a turbine, or a police whistle laying sideways with a pipe sticking straight up, this creates a vortex upon entering the riser, a fire tornado, the heavier molecules like creosote and motor oil are spun, or flung to the outside where they are smash into the searing hot wall, causing more thermal fracturing. The lighter gases like hydrogen and methane migrate toward the center and the mix is finally discharged into the steel barrel.
The one improvement I’d like to make is to install something like kyocera ceramic knives at the bottom of the riser like the impellers of a jet engine (but steeper), to further the velocity of the tornado (vortex generator). Also cut the riser down by 80% and replace the missing section with ceramic pipe. This will reduce the lag time during warm-ups and increase overall efficiency.Stage 3, the barrel.
The barrel is also a condenser, when air cools it condenses and needs more air to fill the void (draft). Inside the barrel supper heated air and steam remains trapped in the upper half, giving the mixture “time” to “pop” more hydrocarbon molecules like the un-popped kernels leftover from popping corn. At the top of the barrel is the water kettle made from a used propane tank. Outside the barrel is copper coiled pipe sandwiched between the barrel and a stainless steel outer sheet metal skin, and insulation over that. I’ll explain the hydro dynamics separately.Hydro dynamics; the ballet between hot and cold moving liquids, stratification, centrifugal forces, and thermal bypass explained.
Stage 1. The pump.
Water (with antifreeze) is circulated from the stove and moved into the thermal field (concrete floor with a thousand feet of Pex tubing for thermal discharge) then circulated back into the stove. A thermal switch at the top of the kettle energizes the pump circuit @180 degrees f. (80 c.) and shuts off at 160 deg. F. (71 c.).
The water travels from the pump to the first copper coil wrapped around the bottom of the barrel, from there it enters the hopper’s water jacket at the bottom and flows in filling the base with cold water stratifying in the process, the hot water in the hopper’s water jacket naturally exits out the top without mixing with the cold water (separation is important).
From the hopper the heated water travels to the second copper coil traveling around in a pro coriolis direction (Ausi’s and NZ do it backwards) (follow your drain’s direction or toilet).
From the second coil it goes into the kettle (again like a toilet) the inlet is angled extremely to inject the water and get it spinning (centrifuge) the cooler water is slung to the outside while the hot water (lighter) remains in the center awaiting final discharge.
The kettle is concave at the bottom, and convex at the top for a reason; during the heating cycle hot water rises from the center of the bottom (high point) and rises to the top spreading out along the sides and feeds back to the bottom, creating a graceful thermal circulation during heating time. The fingers on the bottom of the kettle are made from rebar, each one represents about 1 inch of steel surface exposure to the heat source, when the super heated exhaust hits the bottom of the kettle, air moves sporadically off these pins like a pinball bouncing off pins instead of a clear path out (similar to a pachinko machine).
How you handle the water is just as important as how you heat it, they both go hand in hand.I used a pair of vice grips as a carburetor needle valve (simple) releasing the grips momentarily will flush any clogs that sometimes form (simple)
The stove shed is made from a pickup top, swimming pool siding, and the base frame is made of rejected solar field hot dip galvanized square tubing, the roof bracing was added in after last winter’s 5+ feet of snow caved it in. repairing the fiberglass was the fastest route, instead of replacing the top.
Loading the hopper is simple! Just about any configuration of varying fuels will burn without interruption, The photo below shows it loaded with wood chips, I even burned a used pair of sneakers without any smoke! I use my log splitter to cut leftover poly pipe into usable lengths.
src=”http://s21.postimg.org/hziwne4on/hopperfuel1.jpg” alt=”” />I used the third brake light on the truck cap as an indicator light when the pump is running. in the background is the
smokestack
The next photo shows one of the experiments I used to load plastic like cotton candy on a stick. Shredded plastic is the way to go!MOBILE 1, eat your f~~~ing heart out! You’ve met your thermal demise!!!
My endless supply of fuel:
Anonymous
Anonymous
AnonymousThanks for the replies men, the thermal mass rocket stove can be built from clay chimney pipes and formed into a concrete or mud bench. I saw a video of a guy that made one to heat his motor home made from an old bus. The principle is the same; down draft, fire tunnel, insulated riser, and the barrel for after burn. Once all the mass (rock, concrete, gravel, water) is heated, it takes time to cool off. You don’t have to feed a rocket stove all night long, the heated mass provides warmth all night long and into the next day. A wood stove must be loaded all night long or else you wake up shivering and have to start a fire half asleep. Another plus is it only consumes half the wood of conventional burning, and no stinky smoke!
If I had to start out poor (and I did) I would buy a shipping container or two, and build my home inside it, with plans of expanding it as needs increase. You could have a livable structure within weeks and much sturdier than any s~~~ hole trailer, or mobile home. If I decide to go back in the woods and build something again, I’m certainly using shipping containers for a cabin.
P.S. I’m “NOT” showing “Live Again” my plans for a backyard compressed syn-gas refinery, he’ll be cumming all over himself like a dog humping a good piece leg!!! I know, I’m the same way!!!
Anonymous
Anonymous
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